Issues with dimmers are commonly down to Triac failure (the bit that does the dimming) but they usually fail either open or closed circuit – they won’t turn the lights on, or stay on whatever you do. If yours are kinda “working” to a certain level, then I’d look at the control circuitry for the individual dimmer channels. That means opening up the dimmer and is best left to a service engineer or competent person. But before you do that, discount your control desk being at fault by setting the broken dimmer to the same DMX address as the working one and checking it still behaving incorrectly. That will eliminate the controller.

You do some nice Stuf i like your style of writing.

God you know you have been doing it too long when go to write “writing” and you end up writing “lighting” LOL

Anyway
I have just done a set up for a disco we had a:
Dimmer
3 Martin Mx1s
6 Martin Cx2s
All on one DMX line termainitated and all

The rig would work but the the Dmx levles were jumping all over the show

I would leave the channle fader in one postion the the dimmer levles were jumping upto 30% acording to the display on the dimmer is was the same for the MX1′s and the CX2′s

I am reading this after i have done the gig but i was wondering what the problem could be in the end we just ran the lights sound to light.

I think the problem mite of been that havving all the Fixtures/Dimmers, on the one line might of been to much for the desk we were useing With by the way is allmoast as old as me heheh

Thanks for the reply, and apologies for my delay in getting back.
It turned out to be a fault in not only one of the Par 36′s, but also a fault in one of the Par 64′s my friend brought over later. Turned out that 64′s only had 5 channels, while the 36′s had 6 channels of dmx.
Both lamps were replaced free by the supplier, dropped them over to him, showed him what happened… “No question, here’s some new ones”.

I’m wondering if there’s any way to trick the LC2412 into running waggly mirror scanners ( I think there some 5 or 6 channel ones around), or 12 channel RGB moving heads (all LED of course).
I know Behringer (and other people) don’t recommend it, but I’ve always been one for stepping outside the square so to speak.

Thanks for the help.
Cheers,
Paul

Have you tried raising faders 1 – 6 with the second unit plugged in? The reason I ask is that, assuming that the DIP switch on the PAR is fairly standard arrangement, switches 1 and 3 ON (plus 10, if you need it to set it to DMX mode) is address 5. Here is more on how to work out DIP switch settings, if you haven’t already read it.

Don’t forget to check the “good” can using DMX 7 or, as you say you getting more, try them at that address. If they work, that obviously rules out a desk or signal issue. Also, try daisy chaining the cans DMX together in a different order to rule out an problem with any DMX outputs from the cans themselves.

Hope that’s given you something to think about.

If you can shed a light on the problem, much appreciated. Going from audio straight into dmx lighting makes me think I need a brain re-adjustment of some kind

Cheers,

_{»crosslinked«}

Given your description you seem to have ascertained that each element works but the the controller doesn’t work with the PAR. Does the scanner work with the USB to DMX? Only reason am asking is that if all the elements work but the PAR/controller doesn’t, is there a hot/cold conductor swap issue? Or that the scanner/controller are using a proprietory control signal (ie, not DMX)?